Declaring War on The New York Times
Chodorow, of course, was an idiot to have run such an ad. For one thing, it does worlds of good for the critic, indicating he or she has a strong following, and that his or her words can make or break a dining place—in itself a measure of proven dependability. Chodorow questions Bruni’s credentials, but one might also ask: What qualifies Chodorow to be a restaurateur? Simply having eaten out a lot since childhood, as he explains on his new blog, doesn’t quite do it.
Worse, Sheraton points out that, “the most damaging result to Chodorow’s restaurant from his blow-up is the added exposure of the negative review to so many who may never have read the original.”
She’s spot-on. I had never heard of Chodorow or Kobe Club. Now I know all about his tumultuous career, his felony conviction, his $390 steaks, his petulance and rotten clams.
The Ads I Would Have Run
Were I Chodorow, I would have bought myself a half-page vertical ad in the Times paper and repeated it in New York Magazine and The New York Observer with the following copy in huge type:
It’s wildly expensive and chichi, too, so I’m not expecting thrills. But then sublime excess in overstuffed crab cakes arrives—“double stuffer,” it’s inelegantly called. And I’m gone.
—Gael Greene, New York Magazine
Don’t miss the terrific crispy “Crab Cake Double Stuffers,” … meaning jumbo crabmeat married to lemon zest, chopped chives, breaded with panko crumbs, dry mustard, and mustard seed; this is mixed with diced cornichons in a warm sesame-chile aïoli into two crab patties: it is one helluva starter.
—John Mariani, from his Web site www.johnmariani.com
Kobe lives up to its name big-time, with some of the most remarkable and lush beef to hit plates here to date. There are dozens of styles for presenting this rich meat, which is bred and raised in Japan, Australia and America with methods that ensure the highest level of fat marbling.
- New York City