Declaring War on The New York Times
Smart or Dumb?
March 2007 By Denny HatchIn the News
Restaurateur Bites CriticThe food fight between Frank Bruni and Jeffrey Chodorow.
“Hooray for Bruni! He’s made it!” Those were my first thoughts last Wednesday morning when I read Jeffrey Chodorow’s ranting advertisement in the New York Times Dining section. Objecting to Frank Bruni’s no-star review of his new restaurant, Kobe Club, that ran in the previous week’s paper, Chodorow yelped like a stuck pig, questioning Bruni’s credentials as a food critic (something he never would have done had the review been favorable), and even his integrity by claiming the review was “a personal attack.”
—Mimi Sheraton, Slate.com, Feb. 23, 2007
Not so.
If you want to pony up $30,000 to $80,000, you can buy a full-page ad in The New York Times and write a long letter that says pretty much anything you like.
Last Wednesday, Feb. 21, 2007, three such letters appeared:
1. From aggrieved restaurateur Jeffrey Chodorow, whose new steak house was dissed by The New York Times food critic, Frank Bruni.
2. From JetBlue founder and CEO, David Neeleman, apologizing for the mess he made in dealing with the ice storm the week prior.
3. From Douglas Durst and Anthony E. Malkin of the Continuing Committee for a Reasonable World Trade Center on a forthcoming Port Authority vote.
All three writers made serious errors.
I just hate it when people spend a lot of money to communicate and then do it badly.
Restaurant Critics
I have had several spiffy lunches in top New York City eateries as the guest of iconic restaurant critic, Mimi Sheraton, whom I adored.
This was in the late 1980s. I had a newsletter about junk mail, WHO’S MAILING WHAT!, and Sheraton had a newsletter about food. I forget who introduced us, but every now and again she liked to pick my brain about the newsletter nitty-gritty—customer acquisition, offers, renewals and the like, and so would invite me to lunch.
Sheraton did not like to dine alone, and she is very, very good company. Buy me a nice lunch and you can ask me anything.
One time she called and told me to make a reservation in my name for the upstairs room at “21.” A Time profile of Sheraton explained that she consumes all meals incognito. “Sheraton refuses to pose full-face for the camera, to make it harder for restaurateurs to identify her and proffer extraordinary service.”
I arrived at “21” a few minutes early and confirmed my reservation. Sheraton arrived and we were led upstairs to our table where one of the owners and the head chef greeted us.
So much for incognito, but hey, the folks at “21” took very good care of us!
The Kobe Club Kerfuffle
One of the three open letters in the Times last Wednesday was from Jeffrey Chodorow, a restaurant entrepreneur, who late last year opened an upmarket Japanese steak house on West 58th Street in Manhattan, Kobe Club.
Takeaway Points to Consider:
* Before spending big bucks for an open letter in the newspaper, think through exactly what you hope to accomplish and what the collateral damage may be.* “A letter should look and feel like a letter.”
—Dick Benson
* This is true for something that goes through the mail or appears online or as a full-page in a broadsheet newspaper.
* Use a letterhead with your logo, address, phone number and e-mail. After all, when you send a letter in the mail, you expect a response.
* Never spend money for a letter that has no information on how to reach you.
* Wide margins, serif type that is easy to read or—if you really want the look and feel of a personal letter—use Courier.
* Make it easy on the eye—14- or 16-point type.
* Short words, short sentences, short paragraphs.
* “Don’t overlook the size and vitality of your signature; they’re your handshake.”
—Malcolm Decker
* “Never pick a fight with people who buy ink by the barrel.”
—Mark Twain
Web Sites Related to Today's Edition:
Kobe Clubhttp://tinyurl.com/yo3xjp
Jeffrey Chodorow’s Blog
http://tinyurl.com/2yn554
Chodorow’s Full-Page Ad in The New York Times
http://tinyurl.com/23fgu6
Court Document on Chodorow’s Felony
http://tinyurl.com/2zghsn
Apology of JetBlue’s CEO, David Neeleman
http://tinyurl.com/2hd28u
Frank Bruni’s Review of Kobe Club
http://tinyurl.com/244d2f
Gael Greene’s Review of Kobe Club
http://tinyurl.com/2x533r
Bob Lape’s Review of Kobe Club
http://tinyurl.com/29tyq5
John Mariani’s Review of Kobe Club
http://tinyurl.com/24tujk
Restaurant Girl’s Review of Kobe Club
http://tinyurl.com/2fh24w
Adam Platt’s Review of Kobe Club
http://tinyurl.com/yol8d5
Steve Cuozzo’s Review of Kobe Club
http://tinyurl.com/ytvamb



